Clare Coat by Closet Case Patterns

First up: a coat inspired by Madam Speaker herself.


Okay, now this coat is not strictly menswear, but it is badass and it does require some new tailoring techniques.  In short, it's me dipping my toe into the tailoring waters.

The coat I am making is the Clare Coat from Closet Case Patterns (available here).  It's View B.  I ordered fabric and snaps from mood:

Fabric:  An italian red wool/nylon/cashmere blend (and admittedly the most I've paid per yard for fabric).  Link here


Lining is acetate.  I thought about getting some silk, but I liked the color and pattern of this one.  Did I mention that this will be my first lined garment?  No fear, right?  Right.  No fear.  I can do this.  Link to lining is here



I do love red with brown/gold.  Very 70s.  I love red and black too, but there's something rich yet subtle about red and brown.

Interfacing is not fusable.  I tend to use cotton organdy for interfacing regardless of what the instructions say.  I'm not sure if that makes me more advanced than I think, a rule-breaker, or just a glutton for punishment.  I heard on a podcast that I love (Sewing Out Loud) that organdy gives the best finish for interfacing garments and I tend to trust those women - they know their shit.  So I try to buy it whenever it's on sale.

Here is the red Ralph Lauren organdy that I purchased from fabricmartfabrics.  Just out of the dryer.  I need to iron it. (I'd link but they're out).



I will be using gold snaps for the closure.

While I waited for my mood box I decided to make a test garment of just the outer shell.  I ended up not needing to alter the pattern at all, which is weird, but okay.


I am going to add about three inches of length to the bottom to hit at the knee.  I am NOT lengthening at the lengthening line on the pattern.  It sits above the pocket and since I do not need to elongate the waist, I am just adding to the bottom of the coat.  I did reshape the bottom a little so that the A line relaxes a bit at the bottom.  I don't want to add width down there.

As a brief aside, I am pretty anti-bell shapes.  I have curly hair and if there aren't a ton of layers on top, it will grow out in a mushroom shape.  I love mushrooms, but keep that shape away from my head and clothes!

I finally got my mood box today!!!





I never order from mood, so that was pretty exciting.  Generally, I comb the remnants at my local and online fabric shops.  This felt very special.  I went right upstairs and armed with the confidence from my test garment, I cut right into that fabric!




I accounted for the nap.  Did I mention that this is my first napped fabric?  What have I gotten myself into?  Tomorrow I'll press and cut the organdy and the lining.  I won't lie.  I'm a little scared, but also excited.

Um, as amateur as I am at sewing, I am even less experienced with blogging.  So if anyone is out there please tell me, do I add to this blog as I proceed through the process or create new blogs as I go?  Thanks.

Also, I do not have any affiliate links.  I just believe in crediting my sources, so I am linking to lots of stuff, but those are not affiliate links.

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